GOTS certified Natural Fashion and Home Textiles
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is a worldwide approved seal of certification of natural textiles. GOTS has been developed by the International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN) [Germany] together with the Soil Association (SA) [England], the Organic Trade Association (OTA) [USA] and the Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA) [Japan]. Together with other international stakeholder organizations and experts GOTS benefits of the respective expertise in organic farming and environmentally and socially responsible textile processing.
For the textile supply chain this standard defines high demands for the environmental and working conditions in the textile and clothing production, where organically produced raw materials are used for the production of natural textiles. The cultivation of raw materials is done without toxic pesticides and fertilizers. Raw materials of animals must come from controlled biological livestock. Genetically modified organisms are prohibited.
Criteria for the GOTS Certification
To keep potential contaminants in the final product as low as possible, the textiles shall at least contain 70 % certified organically grown natural fibres. The Global Organic Textile Standard provides for a subdivision into two label-grades:
Label-grade 1: ‚organic‘
≥ 95% certified organic fibres, ≤ 5% non organic natural or synthetic fibres
Label-grade 2: ‚made with X% organic‘
≥ 70% certified organic fibres, ≤ 30 % non organic fibres, but a maximum of 10% synthetic fibres (respective 25% for socks, leggings and sportswear), as long as the raw materials used are not from certified organic origin, a sustainable forestry management program or recycled.
Environmental Criteria of the GOTS Seal
In the processing of natural fibres, many chemical processes are forbidden. Many critical inputs that pollute the environment and are also often skin incompatible may not be used, eg toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes. Permitted chemical inputs must meet the basic requirements in terms of their toxicity and must be biodegradable. Thus, for example, the eco jeans is bleached with oxygen instead of chlorine.
In the further processing of natural fashion and home textiles the areas of embroidery, manufacture and textile finishing may only use the most environmentally friendly materials and processes. Fabrics are dyed and printed with waterborne paints. Accessories must be, for example, free of PVC, nickel or chrome. For this purpose, nature provides numerous alternatives such as Tagua, mother-of-pearl or horn. For other materials and accessories strict limit values regulate on the maximum allowable limit of unwanted residues.
All companies being involved in the textile manufacturing process have to minimize and dispose of waste and discharges environmentally friendly. GOTS certified organic fashion only has to be packaged with paper or cardboard. And this must be recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC. PVC is banned in every respect. From cultivation of raw materials through the processing of natural fibres to the finished product all the manufacturing process parties must be certified by GOTS.
GOTS and Social Criteria
In addition to the standard for organic natural fibres in the cultivation and processing, the GOTS certification encompasses also that all manufacturers and processors must meet minimum social criteria. The social standards are based on the criteria of the International Labour Organisation (ILO). These include, inter alia,
- No forced and child labour
- Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining
- Safe and hygienic working conditions
- No discrimination
The main components of the control are also whether minimum wages are paid, working hours and weekly rest are kept and whether if it is a regular employment, eg an employment contract has been concluded.
All manufacturers that offer eco fashion, rely on GOTS. And therefore, ensure global transparency and safety in natural fabrics. Annual checks in the certified enterprises, even unannounced, ensure compliance with the Global Organic Textile Standard.
By the way, more and more textile manufacturers are also about to certify their natural fashion even after the Fair Trade standard.